Beating around the Bush
Now for something completely different. I went on a film tour of Shepherd's Bush yesterday. I like Shepherd's Bush. A number of my friends and colleagues live there, and they, too, savour its rackety charm. Some years back, there was a gun battle at the local Nando's, which resulted in a wounded crim crashing his car through the front window of an estate agent's and then dying. A W12-resident journalist I know rang that same estate agent the next day, purporting to be a buyer interested in moving to the area, stressing that he was looking for somewhere safe and quiet, and gleefully reported the agent's assertions that Shepherd's Bush was as safe as Godalming (presumably while gore and glass were being sponged off his desk) in a subsequent article. Anyway, it's to combat this sort of image problem (as well as to promote the distinctive character of the area before it is potentially annihilated by the vast shopping/media/hotel/space station development on the old White City site, and to accord with the mayor's scheme to pry tourists away from the centre and into the more interesting bits of London), that Hammersmith and Fulham Council have inaugurated a number of tours.
So I went on the film one. Our blue badge buide Simon Rodway (www.silvercanetours.com)took us through the history of cinema in Shepherd's Bush. On screen, it was the location for several bits of Quadrophenia (Cooke's Eel and Pie shop in Goldhawk Road, the old 1905 public bath-house, the market where Ray Winstone, for probably the only time in his career, gets his head kicked in), which is perhaps unsurprising since W12 was The Who's old stomping ground. Harry Palmer's flat in The Ipcress File was also reportedly in the area, the opening credits of Minder were shot in Blythe Road, and much of the Sweeney was set in nearby Hammersmith, while the doctor in Hitchcock's Rebecca resides at "165 Goldhawk Road" (a name plucked out of a hat, apparently, since the film was made in Hollywood and the address now houses a wine warehouse).
Most important to Shepherd's Bush, though, says Simon, was the BBC, which moved in from Alexandra Palace in the 1940s and bought up anything film-related, including Riverside Studios, the Lime Grove Studios (built by Gaumont in 1915, used by Hitchcock and Balcon, sold off in 1992 and demolished in favour of a housing estate) and the former music hall the Shepherd's Bush Empire, which I didn't know had been designed by Frank Matcham as the twin of its Hackney namesake. Even more revealing for me was the fact that the garishly painted but still handsome building that now houses that circle of Antipodean hell The Walkabout, began life as the Cinematograph Theatre in 1910. There is still a huge, beautiful terracotta sign running along the side of the building advertising "continuous performance", with seat prices in the old money. And next to it is the Shepherd's Bush Pavilion, which I must have walked past a hundred times and which I've never paid full attention to. This 3,000 seat cinema won a RIBA award for its frontage, inspired by classical buildings in Rome, in 1923, and was later turned into an Odeon, with the Cinematograph/Walkabout co-opted as a second, smaller auditorium. Most tours don't get to go inside, but we did. The building now exudes an air of decrepit desperation, but it is still magificent, and wears the scars of its various guises with pride. The stalls were roofed over to contain a bingo hall at some point (some 70s decor and light fittings remain). But the swoop and scoop of the ceiling and what would have been the upper circle in what is left of the auditorium still inspire a sort of awe - like a ruined version of the splendidly preserved State Cinema on Kilburn Road. The Pavilion has been used as an events company but has now apparently been sold, and although it is Grade II listed (the facade at least), planning permission has been granted to turn it into a hotel. (Don't you hate people who say "an hotel"). Anyway, I feel privileged and only slightly smug to have seen the interior, and I heartily recommend the rest of the tour, which is just one of many embracing food, history, the river, etc. For details, go to www.visitshepherdsbush.co.uk.




