This week, I have mostly been eating in Gordon Ramsay restaurants. Six of them in four days to be precise. To find out why, and what I thought of them, you'll have to read next Thursday's Standard. I will say that, having eaten in both her dining rooms, Angela Hartnett richly deserves her award as chef of the year in the catering industry's Oscars (my colleague Jonathan Prynn sums it up best in his blog). And that bingeing on fine dining gets you over rich food the same way smoking a whole carton of cigarettes can rid you of nicotine addiction. Not premanently, of course...